The Jesuits were accompanied to the place of their
embarkation by their simple and affectionate parishioners, who took
leave of them with tears and sobs. Many of the latter abandoned their
hereditary abodes, and wandered off to join their southern brethren,
so that but a remnant remained in the peninsula. The Franciscans
immediately succeeded the Jesuits, and subsequently the Dominicans;
but the latter managed their affairs ill. But two of the missionary
establishments are at present occupied by priests; the rest are all in
ruins, excepting one, which remains a monument of the former power and
prosperity of the order. This is a noble edifice, once the seat of the
chief of the resident Jesuits. It is situated in a beautiful valley,
about half way between the Gulf of California and the broad ocean, the
peninsula being here about sixty miles wide. The edifice is of hewn
stone, one story high, two hundred and ten feet in front, and about
fifty-five feet deep. The walls are six feet thick, and sixteen feet
high, with a vaulted roof of stone, about two feet and a half in
thickness. It is now abandoned and desolate; the beautiful valley is
without an inhabitant--not a human being resides within thirty miles of
the place!
In approaching this deserted mission-house from the south, the traveller
passes over the mountain of San Juan, supposed to be the highest peak
in the Californias. From this lofty eminence, a vast and magnificent
prospect unfolds itself; the great Gulf of California, with the dark
blue sea beyond, studded with islands; and in another direction, the
immense lava plain of San Gabriel.
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